El Nido's turquoise lagoons, Coron's wrecks, a ferry crossing or a bangka expedition: our itinerary through northern Palawan, with Tours A to D decoded, the right window from December to May and the cash advice that can save a trip.
Limestone cliffs rising straight out of turquoise water, lagoons you earn by kayak, and Second World War wrecks resting between 10 and 40 m down: northern Palawan distils the very best of the Philippines. In ten days or so between El Nido and Coron, you have one of the finest island journeys in Asia. Here is how we build it: boat tours decoded, crossing included, with the real numbers and the precautions that keep nasty surprises at bay.
Why northern Palawan rather than Boracay or Cebu? Because everything is concentrated here: two bases, El Nido and Coron, separated by a crossing that is itself a highlight of the trip, and dozens of islets reachable by bangka, the local outrigger boat. No long drives, no programme scattered across three distant islands: you unpack twice, and the sea does the rest.
Getting to Palawan from Luxembourg
Allow 14 to 16 hours of flying to Manila, with 1 or 2 stops, most often via Doha, Dubai or Singapore. From there, two options for El Nido: a domestic flight to Puerto Princesa (around 1 h 20) followed by a 5 to 6 hour van transfer, or a direct flight to the small Lio airstrip, ten minutes from town, more expensive but saving nearly a full day. Our favourite arrangement: arrive via El Nido and leave via Busuanga airport, on the Coron side, so you never retrace your steps. And if your timings are tight, plan a night in Manila on the way out: domestic connections do not forgive long-haul delays.
El Nido: Tours A to D, a user's guide
In El Nido, the Bacuit archipelago is explored by island hopping on four standardised circuits, soberly named A, B, C and D. All leave around 9 am and return around 4 pm, grilled lunch on a beach included, for 1,400 to 1,800 PHP per person, roughly €22 to €28 (reckon on around 65 PHP to €1). Add the local eco-tax, valid for ten days and paid once on arrival. Boats are shared, usually with around fifteen passengers; chartering a private bangka can be arranged for a group or a special occasion.
- Tour A, the lagoon tour: Big Lagoon or Small Lagoon depending on the time slots, Secret Lagoon, Shimizu Island and Seven Commandos beach. The most sought-after, book it first.
- Tour B, the quietest: the Snake Island sandbar, Cudugnon Cave, islets with far fewer visitors.
- Tour C, our favourite alongside A: Hidden Beach, Secret Beach, the Matinloc shrine and superb snorkelling.
- Tour D: the beaches and lagoon of Cadlao Island, perfect for a gentler day at the end of the stay.
Coron: the wrecks and the lakes
Coron plays a different tune. In September 1944, a Japanese supply fleet was sunk in the bay: a dozen or so wrecks now rest between 10 and 40 m down, making this one of the most renowned wreck-diving sites in Asia. Certified divers explore the Okikawa Maru or the Irako; everyone else has a fine time snorkelling above the Lusong Gunboat, visible just a few metres below the surface. Between outings, the area's essentials: Kayangan Lake and its crystal-clear water, Twin Lagoon and its passage under the rock at low tide, and Barracuda Lake with its strange layer of warm water that catches divers off guard at around 14 m down. If diving tempts you, this is where to budget for it: 3 to 5 day packages run between €300 and €500, accommodation and meals included.
El Nido to Coron: fast ferry or bangka expedition
Two ways to link the two bases. The fast one: the ferry, a 3 h 30 to 4 h 30 crossing depending on the sea, in the region of €30 per person, to book one to two days ahead in high season. The memorable one: a 3 day, 2 night bangka expedition through the Linapacan islands, nights in bamboo huts on deserted beaches, fish grilled over a wood fire, zero signal. Allow €200 to €300 per person all in, depending on the operator and the level of comfort. It is often the number one memory our travellers bring home, on one condition: accepting three days of very simple comfort, thin mattresses and bucket showers of fresh water included.
When to go, how much to budget
The safe window runs from December to May, the dry season: a workable sea, boat trips all but guaranteed. From June to November, the monsoon and typhoons regularly cancel tours, sometimes several days in a row, which can hollow out a short stay. Our favourite compromise: February to April, with less rain and fewer people than over the festive season. On the budget side, Palawan stays very affordable once you are there: €30 to €60 per day per person excluding flights if you stay simply, more if you are aiming for the resorts. Add the practical markers: a time difference of +6 hours in summer and +7 hours in winter, a passport valid for 6 months required, and visa-free entry for 30 days for European citizens arriving by air. English, spoken everywhere, makes the trip surprisingly smooth.
“Two bases, one crossing, dozens of islets: northern Palawan is one of the rare places where the simplest itinerary is also the most spectacular.”
Fancy this trip on your dates, with the right combination of domestic flights, the tours booked in the right order and a bangka expedition if the mood takes you? Tell us about your plans: we build the itinerary, we flag the critical bookings, and you set off with a road book you can use even without a signal.
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